I have a problem with my Whirlpool dryer, btu I believe I know how to fix it. One days it was dryer and today there is no heat, but still turns and the timer and everything works. I am assuming the heater coil went on the dryer, am I correct? If I am, where could I buy a good, cheap part online?
Tagged with: btu • heater coil • timer • whirlpool • whirlpool dryer
Filed under: Clothes Dryer Parts
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You didn’t mention the type of dryer you have, but the fact that you’re thinking heat coils make me think you feel it’s electric. If so, you’re on the right track, but you’re going to have to do some investigative work to determine the exact part that you need. There is a hi limit thermal fuse setting against the side of the heater shell, near the top that acts like a fuse. In effect, if it’s overheated from a malfunction of the lower operating thermostat, it will blow and stop the heating function of the unit. The drum and everything else will still work, but there will be no heat. The same thing can happen if you have cartridge or glass fuses in a service disconnect box near the dryer, for power. One side’s fuse, or cartridge can blow and cut the available power down to 110 instead of the needed 220 for the heater coil. The drum motor will still turn, but there won’t be enough juice to run the coils. You’ll need several tools to get it apart, as these parts are in the rear of the unit, which means the back panel will have to come off. I’d check the fuse situation first, unless you have breakers.. if so, then that’s probably not the problem. You can use a volt/ohm tester to check the continuity of the hi limit fuse and the coils. Which ever one doesn’t have continuity is the culprit. As to where to buy a part online, personally, I’d call a local parts distributor with my model number, make and type of unit in the morning and ask them for their help in finding a part. If you do find it online for a slightly lower price, the shipping will usually eat that up.
Buy direct from Whirlpool. Be sure to have the model and serial number available. It’s best to get the correct parts rather than some maybe will work general replacements.
Call your local appliance parts and get it from them. Take the old one with you and they can test it to make sure that it’s bad.
It could be your heater coil but it could just as easily be a thermostat. There is a part called a thermal cutoff located on the side of the box that holds the heater coil. This part is as likely the problem as the coil. If you have access to a multimeter, measure the resistance. The heater should measure about 9-10 ohms, The thermostats and thermal cutoff should measure close to 0 ohms.
As far as finding the part online – they’re everywhere. For a shameless company plug, a local Sears parts department would likely have them in stock and you won’t have to wait or pay shipping.